The Food Diaries

West Country Girl Creperie in Paris

Tucked away in a little side street off the hip and cool Oberkampf district of Paris snuggles a fab little creperie set in cool and modern surroundings.

I know, I know. It’s totally cliched. But the French do this sort of thing with effortless charm and ease. Delicate and lacy buckwheat savoury crepes stuffed with mushrooms & St. Maur goat’s cheese, brie & bacon, or egg & spinach, and for dessert a sweet crepe topped with baked apples and salty caramel. Once a week on a Friday a fresh shipment of some of the best oysters I have ever tasted arrives directly from Brittany. All this goes very nicely with their house ciders and beers on tap.

And then it’s a mere hop, skip and a jump to rue Oberkampf and beyond to Belleville for some seriously late night bar hopping.

Here’s the address:
6, passage Saint Ambroise (11th)

Tél: 01 47 00 72 54

Here’s the map of the location

Red and yellow cherry tomato mini-bruschetta

I can’t get enough of a tomato bruschetta. So fresh, so easy to make, really healthy, and oh so pretty. Have some for a quick lunch on Saturday, serve them as an appetizer for friends, bring them along to a picnic.

Rub a cut clove of garlic on some toasted rye deli bread slices (or little rye rounds). Spread on some soft goats cheese (or the milder cheese curd or cream cheese). Add a dollop of black tapenade. Mound chopped red and yellow cherry tomatoes. Add a good sprinkling of freshly ground sea salt and pepper, a drizzle of olive oil, and some torn basil leaves.

There you have it - a perfectly formed

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Asparagus and Parmesan

The simplest of dishes - which therefore commands the best ingredients available.

Boil 350g new-season stocky green asparagus till a fork can just about easily pierce the stems. Immediately drain, place on a serving platter, drizzle with good-quality olive oil, some salt and pepper, and shavings of parmigiano reggiano (parmesan).

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Hakkasan, London
….I can happily confirm is still the best Chinese restaurant out there, and, now surprisingly vegetarian- (even vegan) friendly. I “accidentally” ordered a completely veggie meal (only noticing when the more observant waitress kindly explained that she hadn’t served us their grilled chilli sauce because it wasn’t vegetarian).

So, no prawn dumplings, crispy duck, pork belly, or whole sea bass for us. No great loss considering the feast we were served. Don’t be afraid to order their tofu dishes either. This tofu is of a completely different breed to the chewy and bland tofu normally served in vegetarian restaurant. Hakkasan’s Morinaga tofu is of the melt-in-the-mouth, silken variety

So here’s what to order for a fabulously vegan (and surprisingly purse-friendly) meal at Hakkasan:

Vegetarian dim sum platter (crystal dumplings, vegetable shumai, yam bean and shiitake dumpling, vegetable beancurd roll)
Four-style vegetarian stir-fry in Szechuan sauce (Thai asparagus, yam bean, shimeji mushroom, Morinaga tofu)
Stir-fry lotus root, asparagus and lily bud in black pepper
Braised tofu claypot with Japanese mushroom in chilli and black bean*

* This is THE dish of dreams.

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Rhubarb Julep

This is a modern twist on a super traditional American cocktail dating back to the 18th century. The original Mint Julep was traditionally served at the Kentucky Derby, the first Saturday in May. I think this works just as well watching the Chelsea Flower Show the third week in May.

In a tumbler muddle together 8-10 fresh mint leaves with 2 tbs rhubarb syrup*. Fill the glass with crushed ice and then pour on 50ml bourbon (such as Maker’s Mark). Stir till the ice becomes frosted. Taste, and if a tad too strong top with additional syrup. Garnish with a mint leaf.

This drink is lovely accompanied by mini macaroons (especially when a friend has sent them in the post as a surprise gift!).

* To make the syrup place 1 cup of sugar with 150g chopped rhubarb in a pot and bring to a boil, then simmer till the syrup thickens and turns pink - around 20 minutes, strain through a fine mesh into a jar and chill at room temperature before storing in the fridge. The remaining rhubarb pieces make a delicious dessert.

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Summer salad season begins - with Rice & Tuna Salad

In a salad bowl mix together 3 cups cooked brown basmati rice, 1 can of best quality tuna (look out for either French, Italian, or Spanish brands where the tuna has been poached in olive oil) mixed with 2 tbs mayonnaise, 4 finely chopped white anchovies, 1/4 chopped black olives, 1 cup chopped ripe tomatoes, the juice of 1 lemon, 2 tbs olive oil, 1/4 chopped pistachios, salt and pepper.

Serve with half a dozen boiled and halved quail’s eggs sprinkled with paprika (or a couple regular eggs quartered will do fine), 1 sliced avocado and a large handful of lamb’s lettuce.

Note: this salad is best eaten if it hasn’t been refrigerated and is served at room temperature - i.e. to match a warm summer day.

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Rhubarb Cosmopolitan & Cosmopolitan on the Rocks

I am not really a Cosmo fan, I’ll normally leave it to the Sex and the City girls. However, here are a couple nice alternatives to mix things up in anticipation of summer.

Rhubarb Cosmo: In a cocktail shaker filled with ice shake together 60ml vodka, 25ml lemon juice (or substitute Japanese Yuzu for a more subtle flavour), and 60ml rhubarb syrup*. Strain into a chilled martini glass.

Cosmo on the Rocks: In a tumbler filled with ice pour 45ml vodka, 25ml cointreau, 25ml cranberry juice, 15ml lime juice and stir.

* To make the syrup place 1 cup of sugar with 150g chopped rhubarb in a pot and bring to a boil, then simmer till the syrup thickens and turns pink - around 20 minutes, strain through a fine mesh into a jar and chill at room temperature before storing in the fridge. The remaining rhubarb pieces make a delicious dessert.

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The best (and easiest) banana cake recipe

The great thing about overly ripe bananas is that you can use them as an excuse to mix up some banana cake (or bread - the term is often used interchangeably). By the way, I wouldn’t bother with a recipe which calls for anything less than 3 bananas - this ensures a dense and moist cake which truly tastes of banana. Eleanor (a family friend from Ottawa) passed this recipe onto my my mother, who passed it onto me, and it is to this day my ultimate banana cake recipe.

In a mixer beat together 1 cup sugar, 1 egg, 1/2 cup softened butter and 1/2 tsp salt. Add 2 tbs milk, 3 mashed bananas, 1 tsp baking powder, and 1 tsp baking soda. Add 1 1/2 cup flour gradually. Pour into a loaf pan and bake for 30 minutes at 180c.

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English Asparagus with Jersey Royals and Crab - a crisp Spring recipe

The month of May is the height of the English asparagus season. Take advantage now while you can (I recommend a daily serving), because once they’re gone all you’ll be left with on the supermarket shelves are the imitation variety, flown in from halfway across the world.

Put to a boil 250g of Jersey royals (or another new potato variety). Meanwhile, in a mortar and pestle crush together 1 clove of garlic, 1 tsp coarse sea salt, and a small handful of basil leaves. Stir in 1/3 cup Greek yogurt. Set aside. Boil or steam 500g green asparagus spears till just tender. Drain immediately and cut into chunk-sized pieces (discarding the woody ends). Once the potatoes are done (easily pierced with a fork) then drain them and place into a serving bowl. Cut up the bigger potatoes into small chunks and then stir in 1tbs sherry vinegar, the basil sauce, 1 tbs creamed horseradish and 120g crab meat (canned will do fine). Add a squeeze of lime or lemon. Gently stir in the asparagus pieces and a couple large handfuls of lamb’s lettuce (or rocket will do). Drizzle with olive oil and season with crushed sea salt and pepper.

Simply omit the crab for a vegetarian version. Soy cream or yogurt would work quite well as a replacement for the Greek yogurt for a vegan version.

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Poutine & Burgers @ Burger de Ville, Montreal

Poutine is one of those baffling regional dishes. Who first came up with the idea that french fries, fresh cheese curds and gravy were a trio of ingredients itching to get together? An odd invention indeed dating back to rural Quebec around the late ‘50’s. And no, I have no idea why it is called poutine.

Nevertheless, this is a very popular dish in French Canada (mostly eaten in “greasy spoon” diners - though today it is so ubiquitous it can even be ordered at MacDonald’s). There are many variations but if you are going to try and recreate this at home I’d keep it pretty traditional:

In a rimmed dish place a heaped serving of crisp/hot french fries. Immediately dot with pieces of cheese curd. These are very difficult to find it outside of Canada and the US - especially as they need to be super fresh. As a substitute for the squeeky/rubbery textured cheese you may want to try pasteurised mozzarella or cheese straws. Now pour over some chicken gravy (ideally flavoured with thyme - in the UK M & S makes a fab one in a jar) and serve immediately.

Oh, and if you are ever in Montreal and you are a burger fan then do try and head out to Montreal Ouest to a fab little diner called Burger de Ville. A friend had told me they made a divine burger - and indeed they do! Served properly rare (to order) with a bewildering list of free toppings to choose from (harissa mayo, relish, pickles, sauted mushrooms, etc.), this is definitely worth a detour. Don’t be put off by the queues out the door - everything is done just right, and with a bit of cheeky smile.

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Moosehead Beer at Bofinger

Can Moosehead Beer be anything other than Canadian?! A fab, Nova Scotia based brewery (the oldest independent in the country), Moosehead marries well with simple BBQ food. If in Montreal, try and pop by one of the Bofinger restaurants - which serve up authentic southern-style BBQ. Try the pork ribs in Southern Carolina sauce (dijon mustard, honey, hot sauce) alongside some Mac N’ Cheese (Canadians are massive fans of the stuff didn’t you know ).

Negroni - a perfect in-transit, DIY cocktail

Who says air travel can’t be done in style anymore? Faced with a 3-5 hour delay at Montreal airport (that pesky volcano out of Iceland again) - I bought entry to one of those airport lounges ($30 - with the promise of being able to catch the big hockey match). Getting ready to settle down in front of the screen I walked up to the DIY bar and surveyed the options: Martini Rosso, Campari, Bombay Sapphire Gin, a bucket of ice and garnishes - and an assortment of bar snacks. Who could ask for anything more?

This is the easiest of cocktails to assemble: Fill a tumbler with ice, now add 25ml each of Bombay Sapphire Gin, Campari and Sweet Vermouth. Normally the Negroni is garnished with a piece of orange peel which has been singed slightly but a slice of lemon will also do.

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Schwartz’s Smoked Meat

Montreal’s very own Schwartz’s is home to the best smoked meat in the world (I know, I’m starting to sound like a broken record after my best bagels in the world entry). Similar (though not identical) to NY pastrami and London salt beef, Montreal smoked meat is spiced cured steamed and then sliced by hand. When served with super soft fresh rye bread and a 1/2 sour (pickle) you’ve got the best thing since well, Montreal bagels.

Again, worth the detour to Montreal (wherever you happen to be heading).

Montreal bagels from St.Viateur

St. Viateur bagels (named after the street in Montreal where this bakery first opened in 1957) are hands down the best bagels in the world (and I’m not interested in hearing arguments to the contrary). Briefly boiled then baked in a wood-burning oven - these bagels are particularly dense and chewy and are at their best when toasted (unless of course you can’t wait till you get home and eat them still warm from the oven). Definitely worth a detour of any length.

I like them best as follows: a toasted sesame bagel, spread with good quality cream cheese and a dash of pepper. If you like you can add a few slices of smoked salmon and a squeeze of lemon. Or if you want to go all out - add a couple slices of red onions and some chopped capers.

Ottolenghi’s marinated buffalo mozzarella and tomato

The new Ottolenghi cookbook has finally been published!! Forget Gordon, Jamie, Heston, Delia, Nigella and co. Yotam Ottoloneghi recipes are all you need if you like to cook simple, fresh, vibrant and modern dishes - mostly all of a vegetarian inclination. He has a way of elevating vegetables and pulses to new heights of respect within the cooking repertoire.

Here’s my first recipe attempt from Plenty (available at Amazon) and what a simple, yet refreshing take it is on the traditional mozzarella and tomato salad:

Dry fry 1/2 tsp of fennel seeds till they start to pop. Crush in a mortar and pestle. Now add one garlic clove, peeled and crush. Mix in a small handful of shredded basil leaves (around 15), 2 tsp chopped oregano, the grated zest of 1 lemon (I substituted orange rind and the results were brilliant!), 2 tsp olive oil, 2 tsp rapeseed oil, 1/2 tsp Maldon sea salt. Mix in 250g buffalo mozzarella broken by hand into chunks. Set aside for 10-15 minutes. Cut 2 ripe tomatoes into wedges (cherry tomatoes will do just as well) and plate up along with the marinated mozzarella. Drizzle with extra olive oil and season with freshly ground pepper.

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