The Food Diaries

Poutine & Burgers @ Burger de Ville, Montreal

Poutine is one of those baffling regional dishes. Who first came up with the idea that french fries, fresh cheese curds and gravy were a trio of ingredients itching to get together? An odd invention indeed dating back to rural Quebec around the late ‘50’s. And no, I have no idea why it is called poutine.

Nevertheless, this is a very popular dish in French Canada (mostly eaten in “greasy spoon” diners - though today it is so ubiquitous it can even be ordered at MacDonald’s). There are many variations but if you are going to try and recreate this at home I’d keep it pretty traditional:

In a rimmed dish place a heaped serving of crisp/hot french fries. Immediately dot with pieces of cheese curd. These are very difficult to find it outside of Canada and the US - especially as they need to be super fresh. As a substitute for the squeeky/rubbery textured cheese you may want to try pasteurised mozzarella or cheese straws. Now pour over some chicken gravy (ideally flavoured with thyme - in the UK M & S makes a fab one in a jar) and serve immediately.

Oh, and if you are ever in Montreal and you are a burger fan then do try and head out to Montreal Ouest to a fab little diner called Burger de Ville. A friend had told me they made a divine burger - and indeed they do! Served properly rare (to order) with a bewildering list of free toppings to choose from (harissa mayo, relish, pickles, sauted mushrooms, etc.), this is definitely worth a detour. Don’t be put off by the queues out the door - everything is done just right, and with a bit of cheeky smile.

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Moosehead Beer at Bofinger

Can Moosehead Beer be anything other than Canadian?! A fab, Nova Scotia based brewery (the oldest independent in the country), Moosehead marries well with simple BBQ food. If in Montreal, try and pop by one of the Bofinger restaurants - which serve up authentic southern-style BBQ. Try the pork ribs in Southern Carolina sauce (dijon mustard, honey, hot sauce) alongside some Mac N’ Cheese (Canadians are massive fans of the stuff didn’t you know ).

Schwartz’s Smoked Meat

Montreal’s very own Schwartz’s is home to the best smoked meat in the world (I know, I’m starting to sound like a broken record after my best bagels in the world entry). Similar (though not identical) to NY pastrami and London salt beef, Montreal smoked meat is spiced cured steamed and then sliced by hand. When served with super soft fresh rye bread and a 1/2 sour (pickle) you’ve got the best thing since well, Montreal bagels.

Again, worth the detour to Montreal (wherever you happen to be heading).

Montreal bagels from St.Viateur

St. Viateur bagels (named after the street in Montreal where this bakery first opened in 1957) are hands down the best bagels in the world (and I’m not interested in hearing arguments to the contrary). Briefly boiled then baked in a wood-burning oven - these bagels are particularly dense and chewy and are at their best when toasted (unless of course you can’t wait till you get home and eat them still warm from the oven). Definitely worth a detour of any length.

I like them best as follows: a toasted sesame bagel, spread with good quality cream cheese and a dash of pepper. If you like you can add a few slices of smoked salmon and a squeeze of lemon. Or if you want to go all out - add a couple slices of red onions and some chopped capers.