The Food Diaries

Hakkasan - in my Top 5 London restaurants for 2010

…the others being Moro (Moorish delights in Exmouth Market), St John (“Nose to Tail” eating in Smithfield), Ottolenghi (who knew vegetables could be so interesting?) and Saf (a vegan wonder).

What to order at Hakkasan for a perfect meal for two:

Dim Sum Platter
Mango Roast Duck
Japanese black bean claypot with marinaga tofu, mushrooms and aubergine
Glutinous Rice
Yuzu Posset (i.e. posh lemon meringue) with blackberry compote and praline crumble at

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ALBION >

Crunchy fettucine with wild mushrooms

This recipe is a somewhat simplified version of one by Ottolenghi in his new recipe book Plenty.

Put a pot of water to a boil. In the meantime heat up a little olive oil in a large pan and stir fry 250g wild mushrooms (or button mushrooms), sliced, till they start to take on colour. Add 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped and stir. Now add 100ml vermouth (or white wine) and 3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked, and reduce the liquid to a third. Stir in between 50-150ml thick double cream (depending on how creamy you like your pasta). Season with sea salt and pepper. Keep warm.

In a small pan toast 20g panko (Japanese) breadcrumbs till golden. Take off the heat and add the zest of 1 lemon, grated and 3 tbs chopped parsley.

Cook 250g fettucine or pappardelle till al dente. Drain, keeping some of the cooking liquid and stir into the mushroom sauce. If the sauce seems dry (especially if you have not used the full quantity of cream) then add in some of the cooking liquid.

Transfer to two pasta bowls and sprinkle with the breadcrumb mixture and some grated parmesan and a little olive oil (if you like).

Serves 2.

Optional: for a vegan version substitute soya cream for the regular cream and omit the parmesan.

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PORCINI CROSTINI >

Ottolenghi - Upper St branch delivers a fab summer menu

Yotam Ottolenghi continues to deliver a punchy summer menu at his wildly successful Islington branch of his small chain of delis. Some highlights include:

Roasted aubergine with saffron yoghurt, pomegranate seeds, pine nuts and basil

Butternut squash with tamarind yoghurt, pistachio, parsley and pomegranate molasses

Barley with mozzarella, mixed tomatoes, oregano,mint, raspberry and raspberry vinaigrette

Okra with red pepper, chilli, coriander, sesame seeds, sweet chilli and soy sauce

Marinated beetroot with balsamic, Rosary goat’s ceese, hazelnuts, red onion and pea shoots

Flakey tart with swiss chard

To have a go at some of these recipes check out the original Ottolenghi cookbook or the new Plenty, focused mostly on vegetables and grains.

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FRANCO MANCA PIZZA >

LE COMPTOIR LIBANAIS >

Lentil salad with tomatoes and Gorgonzola

Here’s another liberal adaptation of a recipe from Ottolenghi’s new Plenty cookbook. This is a really good make-ahead lunch option - meat-free, yet still protein-rich.

Cook 250g Puy lentils in a large pot of boiling water till tender (20-30 minutes). Drain and place in a serving dish. I quite like the Black Beluga lentil ready-to-eat packets such as those sold under the Merchant Gourmet brand. Whil still warm add the following: 1 small red onion, finely sliced, 1 tbs sherry vinegar, 1 tsp Maldon sea salt, 2 tbs olive oil, and 1 garlic clove, crushed.

Once cool add a well-packed 1/2 cup chopped herbs (choose any combo from parsley, chives, dill, and chervil), 80g crumbled Gorgonzola or Feta, and 3/4 cup of any of the following combo (chopped sunblush tomatoes, sundried tomatoes, grilled red peppers), and a dash of balsamic vinegar.

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RED CAMARGUE SALAD WITH FETA >

Asparagus with feta with lemon zest - from Ottolenghi’s Plenty

The asparagus season has been particularly bountiful this year, so am having to expand my repertoire of asparagus recipes. This one is ever-so-slightly adapted from Ottolenghi’s wonderful new recipe book Plenty.

Throw a large bunch of asparagus (500g), ends trimmed, into a roasting dish. Drizzle with 1tbs rapeseed oil and sprinkle with Maldon sea salt. Place in a hot oven (200c) for around 10 minutes (or until the tips are nicely grilled). Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with crumbled feta (60g), the zest of 1 lemon, a little olive oil, and some freshly ground pepper.

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ASPARAGUS & PARMESAN >

OTTOLENGHI’S MARINATED MOZZARELLA SALAD >

Ottolenghi’s marinated buffalo mozzarella and tomato

The new Ottolenghi cookbook has finally been published!! Forget Gordon, Jamie, Heston, Delia, Nigella and co. Yotam Ottoloneghi recipes are all you need if you like to cook simple, fresh, vibrant and modern dishes - mostly all of a vegetarian inclination. He has a way of elevating vegetables and pulses to new heights of respect within the cooking repertoire.

Here’s my first recipe attempt from Plenty (available at Amazon) and what a simple, yet refreshing take it is on the traditional mozzarella and tomato salad:

Dry fry 1/2 tsp of fennel seeds till they start to pop. Crush in a mortar and pestle. Now add one garlic clove, peeled and crush. Mix in a small handful of shredded basil leaves (around 15), 2 tsp chopped oregano, the grated zest of 1 lemon (I substituted orange rind and the results were brilliant!), 2 tsp olive oil, 2 tsp rapeseed oil, 1/2 tsp Maldon sea salt. Mix in 250g buffalo mozzarella broken by hand into chunks. Set aside for 10-15 minutes. Cut 2 ripe tomatoes into wedges (cherry tomatoes will do just as well) and plate up along with the marinated mozzarella. Drizzle with extra olive oil and season with freshly ground pepper.

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BLACK AND WHITE QUINOA SALAD >

Coffee & Cake - Sticky Chocolate Loaf

What more is needed to match a beautiful set of antique French coffee cups then a lovely dense chocolate fondant (with the addition of prunes and armagnac - a true match made in heaven). The following recipe is from the wonderful Ottolenghi Cookbook. Note that this cake is nearly vegan (just 1 egg and a little yogurt) and I’ve made both the regular and the entirely vegan versions (I made some substitutions) which both came out perfectly well.

Place 100g pitted prunes (preferably from Agen) in a saucepan with 100ml Armagnac or Cognac. Warm slightly and then set aside.

Put another 100g prunes in a food processor with 60ml buttermilk or yogurt, and 60ml sunflower oil and puree. Mix in 1 egg, 30g caster sugar, 60g light brown sugar, and 40ml treacle.

In another bowl mix together 115g flour, 1/2 tsp baking powder, 1/2 tsp bicarbonate of soda, 15g cocoa powder and a pinch of salt. Fold into the prune mixture. Fold in 150g dark chocolate, chopped.

Pour into 2 small (500g) loaf pans lined with parchment (or in one larger pan either loaf or round). Now, cut each soaked prune into quarters and using your finger press them below the surface of the cake at regular intervals. Bake for 35-45 minutes at 170c.

Now make a syrup by warming together 80ml water and 80g caster sugar (stir to dissolve the sugar) to which you then add 2 tbsp Armagnac or Cognac (plus whatever was left from the soaked prunes). Once the cake is out of the oven poke a few holes in the cake using a skewer and brush over the syrup till is gets absorbed through. Let cool completely before removing from the tins.

Serve on its own, or with some sliced fruit (strawberries, cherries, orange) and some cream (clotted, creme anglaise, ice cream, etc.). Makes around 10 smallish but dense slices.

Vegan substitutions: 1 egg = 1/4 cup pureed prunes, 60ml yogurt = 80ml soy cream mixed with 1 tbs lemon juice. Add an extra 1/2 bicarbonate of soda to the flour mixture. I’ve also discovered a fabulous soy cream which can be whipped and served just like regular cream. It’s called soyatoo. Planet Organic in London carries it as does WholeFoods in the US. I add a touch of flavouring to mask the slightly bland soy flavour (amaretto works well).

Ottolenghi!! Upper St, London

Lunch at one of my favourite spot ever - Ottolenghi. Big clean white space and communal tables. Large displays at the front of the food on offer. Right-hand side is full of vibrant salads, roasted vegetables, and beautifully prepared meats and fish. Left-hand side groans with giant meringues, plum tarts, chocolate fondant cakes, banana caramel cheescake, croissants, and my ultimate favourite - passion fruit and lemon curd meringue tarts. Yotam Ottolenghi himself made an appearance - always a good sign.

Ottolenghi has been my current favourite recipe book since it first came out a couple years ago. It’s a cookbook I actually use and browse through for inspiration. Yotam Ottolenghi has a fresh and modern approach to flavours and has a particular affinity with vegetables, salads and extraordinary desserts (I know, an odd but inspired combo). I recommend signing up to his New Vegetarian column in The Guardian Online where he publishes new recipes on a regular basis.

So what’s your favourite Ottolenghi recipe?