The Food Diaries

27 September 10

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The Breakfast Club: Kedgeree with a poached egg on top

In a pot place 1 cup brown basmati rice with 2 cups water, bring to a boil and then simmer, covered. Meanwhile, place a 250g fillet of smoked haddock in a pan and just cover with water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the fish from the pan (retain the water for later), remove the skin, and flake. Slowly fry 1 large shallot (or small onion) in a little butter till softened. Add 1/4 tsp turmeric and 1/2 tbs curry powder. Stir around briefly and remove from heat. Poach 2-3 eggs(this recipe serves 2-3, so count 1 egg per person). I love these poach pods.

Now add the fish, the shallot, 1/2 cup frozen peas, and the juice of 1 lemon to the rice. You can moisten the mixture with the cooking water from the fish to loosen the rice (it should be quite unctious), and finish with 1 tbs cream and a seasoning of sea salt and pepper.

Serve with the poached egg on top.

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24 September 10

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The Breakfast Club: Avocado & scramble egg tortilla

In a small pan wiped with a little cooking oil, break two eggs and add a small handful of grated white cheese. Scramble the eggs on medium heat till they reach the desired consistency. Stir in 4-6 quartered cherry tomatoes. Season with sea salt, pepper and a little chilli sauce. Pile into 3-4 corn tortillas, warmed (either in the microwave or in a dry, covered pan on the hob), add a slice of avocado and a squeeze of lime.

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MEXICAN POACHED EGGS >

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20 September 10

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Roasted yellow beets & Chantenay carrots with walnut dressing

Scrub 1 lb little yellow beets (look for them in farmer’s markets) and 1lb Chantenay carrots (or other baby carrot variety), top and tail them, and cut into chunks (beets in quarters, and carrots in half lengthwise). Place in a roasting dish with a drizzle of olive oil, some fresh or dried thyme leaves and a little sea salt and pepper. Roast @ 200c till golden (around 20-25 minutes).

Transfer to a serving dish and drizzle on a dressing made of 1tsp mustard (I like Tewksbury which has a hint of horesradish in it and is creamier in flavour than dijon), 1tbs sherry vinegar, and 1 tbs walnut oil. Sprinkle a few chopped walnuts and serve.

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ENDIVE, BEET & SOFT GOAT’S CHEESE SALAD >

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18 September 10

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The Aperitivo Hour 2: Funghi porcini crostini

Notoriously difficult to find outside of Italy, the fresh funghi porcini (as opposed to the dried version which is relatively easy to find - and much cheaper), is a joy. Italians serve it in various forms (with barley in a cold salad, grilled, with tagliatelle or gnocchi, etc.).

My favourite way is keeping it very simple (another 5 minute wonder), by slicing up 1 medium funghi porcini and adding it to a pan with a little olive oil and 1 garlic clove, chopped. Stir fry till the porcini becomes very soft and lightly golden. Serve on grilled Italian bread slices.

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BLACK OLIVE TAPENADE >

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17 September 10

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The Aperitivo Hour - Black olive tapenade

I would categorise this in the “under 5 minutes to prepare” section of my repertoire.

In a food processor place 1 garlic clove (peeled), 3 anchovy fillets (I like the white ones), the juice of 1 lemon and 1 tbs capers. Whizz till finely chopped. Now add 1 cup pitted black olives and 1/4 cup olive oil. Whizz again till it has achieved the desired consistency (either finely chopped or creamy).

You can also use a mortar and pestle instead of the food processor.

Other variations include adding 1/2 cup sundried tomatoes, replacing the black olives with green olives, omitting the anchovies for a vegan version.

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RED & YELLOW TOMATO BRUCHETTA >

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15 September 10

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Bananas Gelateria in the Florentine valley of San Casciano in Val di Pesa.

Being a massive ice cream fan, it is great to see a growing trend towards more artisanal ice cream parlours (especially in places like London). Sadly however, no one seems to be able to do it with such ease and success as the Italians. Bananas, based in the tiny village of San Pancrazio (in the valley south of Florence) is a small, family-run producer, delivering lovely ice creams across the Florentine region. The small gelateria features around 10 seasonally-inspired flavours (such as strawberry, fig and hazelnut).

Closed Mondays and at lunchtime.

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Scoop Soho >

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14 September 10

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Risotto with saffron from Casole D’Elsa and liquorice powder @ La Suvera, Tuscany

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Buca di Sant Antonio, Lucca >

Bigonge Bar, Prato >

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13 September 10

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Buca Di Sant’ Antonio in the centre of old Lucca (a much more relaxed and well-designed city than nearby Florence), is a traditional Osteria dating from the late 18th century. The menu is focused on traditional Lucchesi dishes (such as farro soup with cinnamon), the wine list local Tuscan, and everything is reasonably priced. The definite place for a meal in town.

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12 September 10

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At the Bigonge Bar in Prato, Italy (just outside of Florence).

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10 September 10

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Melon & Rosé

Wines have been produced in Provence for over 2,500 years and the Provençal rosé is one of the lovliest produced - much lighter and drier than the rosé available from places such as California. Amazingly more rosé is drunk today in France than white wine! My favourite is the wine produced by the Mas Sainte Berthe, nestled in the foothills of Les Baux de Provence.

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I love melon paired with rosé wine, served as a starter with some crusty bread and perhaps a slice or two of prosciutto.

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6 September 10

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Spaghetti with courgette flowers

Bring a pot of water to a boil. In the meantime, take a dozen courgette flowers (rinsed) and fry in a little olive oil till golden. Sprinkle with some sea salt and set aside on a plate. Boil 250g spaghetti pasta (or spaghettini) till al dente. In the meantime, place 2 tbs olive oil in a large frying pan and add 1/2 cup breadcrumbs, 1/4 cup finely chopped walnuts, 1 chopped garlic clove, and some chopped herbs (parsley, thyme, oregano, etc.). Slowly stir fry till golden. Season with sea salt and pepper.

Drain the pasta (reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid) and add to the pan with the breadcrumb mixture. Stir the “sauce” evenly through out the pasta, adding the cooking liquid a little at a time to moisten (you may not need all the liquid).

Serve up in two pasta plates with some of the reserved courgette flowers on top, with a drizzle of olive oil, and a sprinkling of grated parmesan (optional).

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STUFFED COURGETTE FLOWERS >

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4 September 10

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Green & yellow courgette salad

Thinly slice 1 green courgette and 1 yellow courgette and place in a bowl with a few chopped mint leaves. You can use a vegetable peeler to cut the courgettes lengthwise into long ribbons. Now add 2tbs olive oil and 2 tbs lemon juice. Season with a 1/2 tsp sugar and some salt and pepper.

Optional: add a sprinkling of freshly grated parmesan.

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ASPARAGUS WITH JERSEY ROYALS >