The Food Diaries

Scandinavian coleslaw

Finely shred a pointed cabbage and place in a mixing bowl, along with a large shallot, finely sliced. Sprinkle with a little salt and 3tbs cider vinegar, mix well and let stand for an hour.

Add 1tbs sugar, 1tbs dijon mustard, 3tbs soured cream, 1tbs olive oil, and 2tbs finely chopped dill. Mix well. Season with pepper and scatter some extra dill overtop.

St John Restaurant’s brown shrimp and white cabbage salad

This dish is often to be found on the menu at the excellent St John Restaurant in London. I’m lucky enough to be able to find peeled brown shrimp at my local farmer’s market - otherwise, beware. Brown shrimp can be quite fiddly to peel! But the lovely concentrated flavours of the brown shrimp (or crevette grise in French) makes it worth the effort.

Finely shred 400g white cabbage (I used the pointed Spring variety) and place in a salad bowl, along with 130g peeled brown shrimp. In a small bowl mix together the juice of 1 lemon, 100ml olive oil, 1tsp finely chopped capers, 50g lightly chopped chervil, and some sea salt and pepper. Whisk together and mix well into the cabbage.

Serves 4 as a starter.

Thai prawn stir-fry with cabbage and peanut sauce

Here’s another great way to use a winter cabbage - the flavours are fresh and crisp, and contrast nicely with the richness of the peanut sauce - a winter comfort food by any definition. You can easily substitute some smalls pieces of chicken breast for the prawns. This peanut sauce is a real winner and can also be served on its own as a dip for crudites, chicken satay, Thai prawn crackers, etc.

First make the peanut sauce by combining the following ingredients in a small pot: 1/3 cup coconut milk (reduced fat versions work well here), 2 tbs peanut butter (the health food shop nut butters or crunchy peanut versions work great), 1 tbs honey (or palm sugar if you have some), 1 tbs soy, 1 tbs Thai fish sauce, 1 tbs lime juice, 1 tbs sweet chili sauce (otherwise substitute some freshly chopped red chili), 1 tbs chopped or grated fresh ginger. Whisk together, bring to a boil, then simmer till the sauce has thickened (about 5 minutes).

In a large frying pan add a little rapeseed/canola oil and then add 1 medium cabbage, washed and sliced. Stir fry for a couple minutes on a medium-high heat till the cabbage begins to wilt a little. Now add 2 garlic cloves, chopped and stir around for another minute. Add a drizzle of sesame oil and then 200g prawns (in any of the following combo: raw/cooked/frozen/fresh). Pour over the peanut sauce, add a little Thai fish sauce to taste and stir around. The prawns will take no time at all to heat through so make sure you don’t overcook! Sprinkle with sesame seeds as a garnish.

Serve with some fragrant Thai rice if you like. Serves 2.

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Robin Winter Cabbage - its distinctive purple colouring brightening up a dull January day

If you manage to get a hold of one of these cabbages (I found mine at a local farmer’s market) then here are some recipe ideas to brighten up a winter’s evening. Why not have a go at making Okonomiyaki (Japanese cabbage pancakes), or for something quick then a simple crisp cabbage & bacon might do the trick. Finally, for something with a bit more spice and umph to it then try replacing the shredded brussel sprouts with cabbage in this spicy sesame wok stir fry.

Crisp Cabbage & Bacon

Winter is coming on, but I have been in denial about it. But with the lush summer tomatoes, courgettes and berries all gone, the savoy cabbage can finally come into its own. This recipe is a one-pot, 10-minute wonder to help survive winter with a bit of brightness in the kitchen and a healthy boost of vitamins in the diet.

In a large pan over medium-high heat place a generous amount of smokey bacon rashers snipped into pieces. Fry the bacon till it starts to crisp up nicely. Add 1tbs of fennel seeds and toast lightly. Now cover the bacon with some shredded savoy cabbage. Add a dash of water to keep everything from drying out, cover, and cook for a few more minutes, till the savoy starts to soften. Don’t cook for too long - the cabbage needs to stay sharp and bright. Finish off with a drizzle of sherry vinegar (let reduce down), then add a sprinkling of sea salt and pepper and a little olive oil.