The Food Diaries

Oysters & Crepes @ West Country Girl

Tucked in a little hidden corner of Paris lies West Country Girl, a fab creperie serving up lace-delicate crepes (savoury and sweet). On Wednesdays they get a delivery of oysters from the west coast of France (in Brittany), the variety available changing from week to week. These are the best oysters I’ve eaten - crisp and tasting of the sea, still full of its own clear liquid that can be used as a good indicator of freshness. Worth tracking down this address when in Paris (6, passage Saint Ambroise 75011, tel: 01 47 00 72 54).

When in Soho - Mooli’s Rotis

Fresh and healthy Indian street food in the form of roti wraps (meat or veggie versions) made fresh in a little cafe in the heart of London’s Soho (on Frith St).

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SCOOP SOHO >

Hakkasan - in my Top 5 London restaurants for 2010

…the others being Moro (Moorish delights in Exmouth Market), St John (“Nose to Tail” eating in Smithfield), Ottolenghi (who knew vegetables could be so interesting?) and Saf (a vegan wonder).

What to order at Hakkasan for a perfect meal for two:

• Dim Sum Platter
• Mango Roast Duck
• Japanese black bean claypot with marinaga tofu, mushrooms and aubergine
• Glutinous Rice
• Yuzu Posset (i.e. posh lemon meringue) with blackberry compote and praline crumble at 

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ALBION >

Moorish culinary adventures in Exmouth Market

Moro restaurant in Exmouth Market London is still amongst my top-rated, most highly recommended restaurants - ever. It’s now been around for quite a few years, yet still seems as new and exciting today as it did when it first opened its doors to huge acclaim.

Between the complex mix of North African and Andalucian flavours, the freshness of the ingredients (they make a beautiful vegetarian mezze plate) and their incredible use of the wood-burning oven (fabulously dense and chewy bread, smoky roast lamb, etc.) - there is certainly something for everyone.

Oh, and do try and give them a call ahead of time rather than rocking up at the door - this place is constantly heaving (even on a Monday when half the city has disappeared on school holidays).

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OTTOLENGHI >

ALBION >

The summer menu at Saf Restaurant - the raw/vegan food supremos with a taste for botanically inspired cocktails.

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OTTOLENGHI >

LE COMPTOIR LIBANAIS >

 Ottolenghi - Upper St branch delivers a fab summer menu

Yotam Ottolenghi continues to deliver a punchy summer menu at his wildly successful Islington branch of his small chain of delis. Some highlights include:

Roasted aubergine with saffron yoghurt, pomegranate seeds, pine nuts and basil

Butternut squash with tamarind yoghurt, pistachio, parsley and pomegranate molasses

Barley with mozzarella, mixed tomatoes, oregano,mint, raspberry and raspberry vinaigrette

Okra with red pepper, chilli, coriander, sesame seeds, sweet chilli and soy sauce

Marinated beetroot with balsamic, Rosary goat’s ceese, hazelnuts, red onion and pea shoots

Flakey tart with swiss chard

To have a go at some of these recipes check out the original Ottolenghi cookbook or the new Plenty, focused mostly on vegetables and grains.

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FRANCO MANCA PIZZA >

LE COMPTOIR LIBANAIS >

La Costa Restaurant in the heart of the Italian Lombardia region - Agriturismo at its best

Agritourism in Italy tends to focus on farm stays, most often tied to restaurants or reception spaces housed in converted barns. La Costa, a DOC wine producer located in Perego, which sits in the centre of the picturesque and mountainous triangle between Lake Como to the north, Milan to the south-west and Bergamo to the south east is a wonderful example of an “agriturismo”, offering lovely wines, simple yet elegant food, in beautiful surroundings.

I didn’t stay long enough to enjoy one of their rooms for an overnight stay - which is a shame as the views of the surrounding hills and countryside are magnificent, and Como is just a short drive away. Who needs Tuscany?

Camp di Cent Pertigh Restaurant - a rural retreat between Milan and Lake Como

Camp di Cent Pertigh, in Carate Brianze is a great place for a pit-stop on the way to the Lakes from Milan. Surrounded by beautiful gardens, the restaurant is spread across a number of elegantly converted barns. The menu changes seasonally and features some wonderful Italian food.

Bistrot du Peintre in Paris - heaven on Earth for the carnivores of the world

Le Bistrot du Peintre is a gorgeous turn-of-the-century (1902) bistrot in the heart of the Bastille area (next to rue Charonne and its lovely cafes and boutiques).This restaurant specialised in the food of the Auvergne as well a South West France, so expect dishes including foie gras, duck confit, and Comte cheese.

It’s a lovely way to kick off a  Saturday of shopping, a brisk walk along the Seine, or a visit to the museum.

The address:
116 avenue Ledru Rollin
75011 Paris
+33 (0)1 47 00 34 39

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WEST COUNTRY GIRL CREPERIE >

Hakkasan, London
….I can happily confirm is still the best Chinese restaurant out there, and, now surprisingly vegetarian- (even vegan) friendly. I “accidentally” ordered a completely veggie meal (only noticing when the more observant waitress kindly explained that she hadn’t served us their grilled chilli sauce because it wasn’t vegetarian).

So, no prawn dumplings, crispy duck, pork belly, or whole sea bass for us. No great loss considering the feast we were served. Don’t be afraid to order their tofu dishes either. This tofu is of a completely different breed to the chewy and bland tofu normally served in vegetarian restaurant. Hakkasan’s Morinaga tofu is of the melt-in-the-mouth, silken variety

So here’s what to order for a fabulously vegan (and surprisingly purse-friendly) meal at Hakkasan:

• Vegetarian dim sum platter (crystal dumplings, vegetable shumai, yam bean and shiitake dumpling, vegetable beancurd roll)
• Four-style vegetarian stir-fry in Szechuan sauce (Thai asparagus, yam bean, shimeji mushroom, Morinaga tofu)
• Stir-fry lotus root, asparagus and lily bud in black pepper
• Braised tofu claypot with Japanese mushroom in chilli and black bean*

* This is THE dish of dreams.

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SAF, LONDON (VEGAN/RAW FOOD RESTAURANT) >

Poutine & Burgers @ Burger de Ville, Montreal

Poutine is one of those baffling regional dishes. Who first came up with the idea that french fries, fresh cheese curds and gravy were a trio of ingredients itching to get together? An odd invention indeed dating back to rural Quebec around the late ‘50’s. And no, I have no idea why it is called poutine.

Nevertheless, this is a very popular dish in French Canada (mostly eaten in “greasy spoon” diners - though today it is so ubiquitous it can even be ordered at MacDonald’s). There are many variations but if you are going to try and recreate this at home I’d keep it pretty traditional:

In a rimmed dish place a heaped serving of crisp/hot french fries. Immediately dot with pieces of cheese curd. These are very difficult to find it outside of Canada and the US - especially as they need to be super fresh. As a substitute for the squeeky/rubbery textured cheese you may want to try pasteurised mozzarella or cheese straws. Now pour over some chicken gravy (ideally flavoured with thyme - in the UK M & S makes a fab one in a jar) and serve immediately.

Oh, and if you are ever in Montreal and you are a burger fan then do try and head out to Montreal Ouest to a fab little diner called Burger de Ville. A friend had told me they made a divine burger - and indeed they do! Served properly rare (to order) with a bewildering list of free toppings  to choose from (harissa mayo, relish, pickles, sauted mushrooms, etc.), this is definitely worth a detour. Don’t be put off by the queues out the door - everything is done just right, and with a bit of cheeky smile.

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MINI-BURGERS >

Moosehead Beer at Bofinger

Can Moosehead Beer be anything other than Canadian?! A fab, Nova Scotia based brewery (the oldest independent in the country), Moosehead marries well with simple BBQ food. If in Montreal, try and pop by one of the Bofinger restaurants - which serve up authentic southern-style BBQ. Try the pork ribs in Southern Carolina sauce (dijon mustard, honey, hot sauce) alongside some Mac N’ Cheese (Canadians are massive fans of the stuff didn’t you know ).